The One Time In Paraguay

Okay okay okay so yes my last blog post was about moving into my own apartment in Ollantaytambo, Peru, and yes this proceeding blog post is titled "That One Time In Paraguay," you're allowed to be confused. Just know that if you're confused, you clearly don't know me that well. 

I'm the girl that cant sit still, cant stay in one place, and if I can, trust me its a damn good place. I, also, am a rule follower, and don't violate visa restrictions, and so I had to leave Peru, at least temporarily until my paperwork gets settled. I'm planning to be back on Tuesday. 

Today, however, August 5th, 2017, is a day of celebration in the world of Brianna; I have achieved a huge life dream. I have accomplished something I've been working at since May 11th, 1996, the day I turned two-years-old. I have officially made it to the same number of countries as years of life I have lived. 23. Paraguay marks my 23rd country, its hard to even believe. 

And, well, ...folks, I did it. I found a place that is comparable to no other place I've yet to see. Asunción, Paraguay. How do I even begin to describe this place? No really I might actually be at a loss for words. 

I guess to start, I feel like a royal ass hole walking around town with my DSLR camera strapped to my back. 

I'm so confused. I don't have an understanding yet. Maybe that tells you it all. Wealth gap. Holy wealth gap. 

Wealth directly next to the largest 'shanty town' I've ever seen, especially on the front steps of a national congress building. Like literal ropes tied around trees of what should be a sweet park near the river, with blue and black and orange tarps hanging over them. Home. And its expansive. Like tons of Paraguayans are living this way. And who knew? In general (and let me not speak for all here) I can tell you most Americans sure don't know this. I'm even willing to bet a hefty percentage of Americans couldn't locate Paraguay on a map, not even if they were told what continent it's on. I say Americans as in 'estadounidenses' here. Because its important to recognize that Paraguayans are Americans too.

Decaying colonial architecture meets being catcalled in an indigenous language. You're confused? Yeah, I'm telling you, me too. 

A majority of Paraguayans speak a language referred to as Paraguayan Gauraní, this would be similar to that of Quechua in the Andes except in that Guaraní really has a strong modern language presence as well and isn't restricted to rural and indigenous populations. Its a sound like no other. 

In my desperate attempts to compare this place to somewhere else all I can say is that it is a bit like the way I imagine Cuba. No really, thats the only thing I can think to compare it to, something of my imagination. It must be the old, paint chipping, architecture that reminds me of photos I've seen of Cuba, and the Spanish context probably doesn't hurt. Nor does today tropical climate and palm trees scattered about the streets. I want to say its like Morocco but its really not, more accurate would be certain neighborhoods of Zagreb, Croatia, but definitely not it. It's really not like either of those places but maybe thats the closest comparison I have in my repertoire. Clearly I have a lot of the world left to see. 

I have so much left to learn and explore here. I cant believe Paraguay is so different. It makes me that much more interested in Argentina and Brazil and Uruguay and Chile, places which I think will be the most comparable, yet maybe not similar at all. Maybe Asunción is the only place in the whole world like this. And here I am, witness to it. I'm so grateful I'm here, learning, seeing, smelling, touching, tasting, listening, living a new culture. 

The weather is nice but so different from the Andes. You know how people say the air is thin in the mountains at high elevation? The air is thick and heavy on my lungs here, humidity is suddenly a thing again and I have pit stains. The elevation is in the 300's and the currency for a meal or a taxi ride is in the multi-thousands, ranging from roughly 20,000-200,000 Guaraníes. Spanish and foreign money is challenging enough, make everything cost some amount of thousands and, well, big numbers are harder to understand; converting things in my head to make sure I'm not actually spending nine times my life savings is overwhelming. This is Paraguay.  

I started my day by getting a little lost. In search of the handful of buildings that blogs mentioned were worth seeing I suddenly stumbled right on the front steps of the House of Independence. The building Paraguayans emerged from to declare their independence back in 1811. It operates as a museum these days but I continued past in search of a few other destinations. That's when I found the National Congress building. Barely. As tents and lean-tos, and various shack-like homes blocked the view. Strangled in a camera, phone and tablet, I decided maybe that wasn't the most respectful way to approach this community in order to visit the national congress building. I still can't exactly process what I saw there today.  

Next to that is the National Cathedral which was pretty from the outside. But the view to my backside will stick with me far longer. Next to the church was a catholic university which appeared closed due to protests. The gate was locked and posters about rising up and fighting back decorated the bars. A security guard sat at the front of the gate and so I hesitated to stay too long to read the posters, meanwhile a group of college-aged students literally scaled the gate and climbed over, plopping themselves down on the entry way steps joining a handful of others to just stare out of the locked gate. 

What is this culture I am so ignorant of? 

I continued my walk in search of some parks and restaurants. I sat and read in a park and watched couple after couple sit and enjoy their tereré together. Tereré being like mate of Argentina, almost exactly. And nearly everyone is seen walking around town with a decorated thermos and one matching cup with a metal straw, to be shared amongst a group of friends. Nothing could be more Paraguayan. 

Even without a thermos in hand people handing out flyers kept trying to pass things to me and survey me, and I just kept saying no thank you, until finally one said "are you not Paraguayan?" I said no and he genuinely looked shocked. Some Paraguayans are quite fair skinned, like ...blonde even, and dress the same as me. I understand the confusion, I just never pictured myself one day being confused for being Paraguayan. 

I strolled many streets looking at restaurant options, street art, as well as many street vendor handicrafts. I caved and bought a beautiful leather backpack to hide all my high priced electronics, so I could get a little less attention on the street. I passed many children playing in burnt out cars full of trash, and a barefoot little darling sitting on a curb shoving her face full of pasta with her hand as her mother wiped off a spoon next to her with a rag that looked like it had been used to change automobile parts just moments before. 

Next I stopped at Lido Bar for some late lunch/early dinner, the spot is obviously well known among the locals as all the street tables were taken all day, and even Anthony Bourdain himself once dined here while shooting an episode of Parts Unknown. I found myself a seat at the bar that makes up the entire inside of the restaurant. After filling myself to the brim and being offered to have my leftovers wrapped up I went on my way to read in the park some more and find someone who would appreciate my leftovers far more than me. After buying some water in a small market I found the perfect recipient and began to make my way back to my hostel in case I got lost and since I wasn't sure what time it got dark here. 

On my walk back two busses crammed with people hanging off all dressed in Paraguayan soccer jerseys and singing in unison passed by, that might be the second most Paraguayan thing ever. 

Happily back in my hostel I'm doing my best to treat this as a vacation and leave plenty of time for rest and relaxation. Since I don't have wifi in my apartment back in Peru the concept of laying in bed and watching Netflix or spending time on Pinterest is about as luxurious as it gets.  

More of the same plans for tomorrow, with hopes of finding a bakery or maybe indulging in a stop at an ice cream shop. Oh Paraguay, you don't even know how much you're encouraging my addiction for solo travel to bizarre and off-the-wall, unexpected, under-traveled destinations.You don't even know. 

(So many photos to come, keep an eye on Instagram)